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Skin Care Formulation Volume 8 Cold Process Soap: 50 Commercial Grade Formulation with detail guide series for starting own Brand
Paperback
Series: Cosmetic Skin Care Formulation 120 Days Challenge, Book 8
Publisher: Independently Published
Published: Aug 27 2026
Pages: 230
Weight: 0.69
Height: 0.48 Width: 6.00 Depth: 9.00
Language: English
Core Science
Saponification: Cold Process soap is made by mixing oils/fats with sodium hydroxide (NaOH). The NaOH cleaves triglycerides into glycerol and fatty acid salts (soap). Unlike Melt & Pour, YOU perform the saponification.
NaOH=Oil Weight×SAP ValueNaOH=Oil Weight×SAP Value
Superfatting: We deliberately use 5-8% LESS NaOH than required. This leaves unreacted oils (the superfat) in the finished bar, providing conditioning and moisturizing benefits.
Trace: Trace is the point where the oil-lye mixture emulsifies and thickens.
- Curing: CP soap requires 4-6 weeks of curing. Water evaporates, the crystal lattice hardens, pH drops slightly, and the bar becomes milder and longer-lasting.
Fatty AcidPropertySource OilsLauric (C12)Hardness, big bubbles, cleansingCoconut, Palm Kernel
Myristic (C14)Hardness, cleansingCoconut, Palm Kernel
Palmitic (C16)Hardness, stable latherPalm, Lard
Stearic (C18)Hardness, creamy latherShea, Cocoa, Palm
Oleic (C18:1)Conditioning, mildnessOlive, Sweet Almond
Linoleic (C18:2)Conditioning, silky feelGrapeseed, Sunflower
Ricinoleic (C18:1 OH)Creamy lather, humectantCastor
The Balance Rule: Too much Lauric/Myristic = harsh, stripping. Too much Oleic/Linoleic = soft, slimy. A balanced recipe uses 30-40% hard oils (Lauric/Palmitic/Stearic) and 60-70% soft oils (Oleic/Linoleic/Ricinoleic).
The 4 Formulations
Next: Day 79 - What is Cold Process Soap and What are the Raw Materials used?
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