Here and There in Italy and Over the Border

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1893. Excerpt: ... CHAPTER X. IMPRESSIONS OF NEW ROME. New Rome is not the saddening sight one expected to see. In spite of hideous modern buildings, reckless destruction of beautiful things, and all the vulgarities of hasty civilisation, it is a grand city, the worthy city of young Italy. Progress may be crude, is often uncomfortable, generally ugly; but it has certain undeniable advantages. In the days of my youth midnight Rome was a place of darkness: occasional oil-lamps only intensified the gloom, or feebly revealed gruesome dust-heaps in the dim, empty streets. To return on foot from a tea-party to one's hotel inspired a sense of perilous adventure. One hurried over the nubbly stones, clinging to the walls, casting timid glances this way and that, as though expecting an ambush at every corner, or lurking daggers under every arch. It was almost a relief to hear the tramp of soldiers' feet, the Qui va la? of a French patrol in crossing some shadowy square. Now, electric light chases all mystery away; the streets are full of carriages and pedestrians, of blazing cafes and shop-fronts; fountains sparkle in the artificial moon-rays; all is bustle, and gaiety, and life. Presently the Monte Citorio clock disturbs our sleep with its quarterly declaration of the hour. At first one endures this cheerfully enough, knowing that its pendulum swings over the Parliament of United Italy; but when you remember that there are no night sittings it becomes a nuisance. By day--well: better if it struck within the House to remind garrulous legislators of the flight of time! Just now, in June, even with the Budget still under discussion, many deputies have flown. But despite scanty numbers, little more than a quorum, there is a vast amount of noise. What a pandemonium it must be when all ...