California Surf Stories
Paperback
Publisher: Independently Published
Published: Nov 25 2022
Pages: 240
Weight: 0.79
Height: 0.55 Width: 6.00 Depth: 9.00
Language: English
This book is a description of 99 (+/-) California surf spots based on my memories of them. It is part memoir, part descriptive listing of surf spots, part rambling musings. Perhaps in time as both humans and nature alter the coastline it will also become a historical document. The timeline spans roughly from 1977 to 1997. The distance spans over 700 miles from the Tijuana River at the Mexican border to the coastal redwoods of Humboldt County. Although surfing and surf spots are the core, it's also to be enjoyed by anyone with interest in the beauty of the ocean and wilderness on earth regardless of whether one ever puts a foot on a surfboard or even in the ocean. The descriptions are written largely free of any surf lingo that would prevent a novice ocean enthusiast from understanding but also detailed enough to be of interest and value to the traveling surfer in search of something new.
We all start from the same point on land. Some may just try the sport a few times and others will become obsessed to a degree shared by only the most committed. Regardless of the time spent or a level of proficiency, there's a common experience and feeling shared at the coast and much of that is the core of these stories. Excerpts: He said to go, that it would be worth the hour and a half drive, 45 minute walk and the 800 yard paddle to and from the spot. I had checked the setup before and knew that he was not exaggerating the distance of the walk, but I could not imagine paddling 800 yards to reach the lineup. It was not an exaggeration. If I were going to be stuck on an imaginary island and could only take one spot with me it would be Black's I don't know how legal it was. I set up my tent on a little bluff just west of Highway 1, but to get there I had to climb through a gap in a fence.looking at the surrounding hills and mountains... I felt at such peace and in love with the earth that only experience can convey the feeling. I am sure that others who have been there, especially in the evening as the sunlight is glowing on the mountains, feel the same as I.
When I came back out onto the street, I walked into a near hurricane force wind. Sand and trash were flying everywhere. Soon the power went out and when I got back to my car I had to reevaluate just how safe my portable hotel was in this location. More than one large tree had already fallen, bringing down power lines across the street. I looked around and saw several other trees that could potentially fall onto my car, so I set out for a new, safer spot to spend the night. I was a bit sore from the previous session and sleeping in the car with two surfboards, a cooler, clothes and a wet wetsuit but I was completely fired up to surf this miraculous place again. I camped on the beach here several times until one night around 2:00 a.m., while I was sleeping in my car, I was awakened by a sheriff who told me camping/sleeping overnight there was illegal and that he did not care where I camped as long as it was not in his county. It is such a wonderful arena of sights, sounds, and sensations. The length of the waves combined with the constant energy flow and flawless form are often as baffling as anything I have experienced. Things like the Alps are certainly wondrous in their own right, but the temporary and constant evolution of waves gives them a certain precious quality of their own. It is things like barely making the most vertical off-the-lip with toes barely in contact with the board on the way down, then falling into twenty yard barrel with a deep blue wall and a silver curtain that is followed by a hard cutback into another barrel and coming out of that and hitting another two or three off-the-lips that must be experienced to be truly understood. Surfing is really the only place I have yet to experience such overpowering feelings.Also in
Surfing
It's Only Drowning: A True Story of Learning to Surf and the Search for Common Ground
Litt, David
Hardcover
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Bundschuh, Rick
Hamilton, Bethany
Paperback
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Smith, Chas
Paperback
Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing
Brown, Marie Alohalani
Lendler, Ian
Hardcover
I Heard There Were No Waves in New Jersey: Surfing on the Jersey Shore 1888-1984
Dimauro, Danny
Kugelberg, Johan
Hardcover
Surfer Stories: 12 Untold Stories by 12 Writers about 12 of the World's Greatest Surfers
Lebenthal, Claudia
Hardcover
Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing
Coleman, Stuart Holmes
Paperback
Point Break: Raymond Pettibon, Surfers and Waves
Lukacher, Brian
Pettibon, Raymond
Brisick, Jamie
Hardcover
All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
Rensin, David
Paperback
Pop Surf Culture: Music, Design, Film and Fashion from the Bohemian Surf Era
Chidester, Brian
Priore, Domenic
Hardcover
Reef Smart Guides Curaçao: (Best Diving and Snorkeling Spots in Curaçao)
Popple, Ian
Wagner, Otto
McDougall, Peter
Paperback
It's Only Drowning: A True Story of Learning to Surf and the Pursuit of Common Ground (Large Print Edition)
Litt, David
Hardcover
Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die: Surfing Experts Share the World's Greatest Destinations
Santella, Chris
Hardcover
Corky Carroll - Not Done Yet: An epic journey of the planet's first professional surfer.
Carroll, Corky
Paperback
Surf Therapy: The Evidence-Based Science for Physical, Mental & Emotional Well-Being
Lambert, Cash
Paperback
The Drop: How the Most Addictive Sport Can Help Us Understand Addiction and Recovery
Ziolkowski, Thad
Paperback
How To Surf Like A California Girl: Finding Your Strength In The Waves And Beyond
Yvette, Apryl
Paperback
All Roads Lead To Dockweiler: Devotions from the Ocean in the City of Angels
Bickerstaff, Rick
Paperback
100 FOOT WAVE The Official Book: Devil's Garden Kingdom of Hawaii
The Willis Brothers
Willis, Milton B.
Willis, Michael C.
Paperback
The Surfer and the Sage: A Guide to Survive and Ride Life's Waves
Benshea, Noah
Tomson, Shaun
Hardcover
Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook
Renneker, Mark
Nathanson, Andrew
Everline, Clayton
Paperback
Circle It, Beach Boys Facts, Word Search, Puzzle Book (Large Print Edition)
Schumacher, Mark
Lowry Global Media LLC
Paperback
Mal Karma: La verdadera historia de un viaje infernal a México (Idioma Español)
Wilson, Paul
Paperback
The Surfing Psychology Workbook: How to Use Advanced Sports Psychology to Succeed on the Waves
Uribe Masep, Danny
Paperback
The Essentials of Surfing: The Authoritative Guide to Waves, Equipment, Etiquette, Safety, and Instructions for Surfriding
Lafferty, Kevin D.
Paperback
The Way of the Waves: A Cycling Odyssey to Rediscover the Soul of European Surfing
Dorey, Martin
Hardcover
A Surfer's Guide to the Golden State: Discovering California's Ultimate Surf Spots from North to South
Harper, Travis
Paperback
Surfing as a dance: How one woman found grace in and out of the water
MacKinnon, Sally Anne
Hardcover
Surfboard Design Sketchbook One: An Activity Book for Creative Kids, Teens, and Adults
Justsurfjournals
Paperback
Surfing Dawn: Training, Mindset, and Safety for Charging Heavy Surf.
Publications, Five Tech
Goswami, Naman
Paperback
100 FOOT WAVE el libro oficial: JARDÍN DEL DIABLO Reino de Hawái (Spanish Edition)
Willis, Milton Bradley
Willis, Michael Clebert
The Willis Brothers
Paperback
The Drop: How the Most Addictive Sport Can Help Us Understand Addiction and Recovery
Ziolkowski, Thad
Hardcover
Improving Your Stand Up Paddleboarding: A Guide to Getting the Most Out of Your Sup: Touring, Racing, Yoga & Surf
Borrows, Andy
Van Drunen, James
Paperback
Waves of Resistance: Surfing and History in Twentieth-Century Hawai'i
Walker, Isaiah Helekunihi
Paperback
Surf, Sweat and Tears: The Epic Life and Mysterious Death of Edward George William Omar Deerhurst
Martin, Andy
Paperback
Puerto Escondido Surfing Guide 2025: A Definitive Insider Tips to Culture, Surf Breaks, Tacos & Sunset Dreams on Mexico's Pacific Gem
Rogers, Patricia V.
Paperback
The Wave of Teahupo'o: A love story and enigma about the world's most dangerous wave
Ross, Martin
Paperback
¿Qué es el SUP? Descubrí todos los secretos que no pueden aprenderse remando sólo.
Lirosi, Santiago
Paperback
Racing with Aloha: An Inspiring Journey from Humble Barefoot Maui Boy to Champion in the Water
Haywood, Fred
Paperback
The Kitefoil Beginner Guide: A step by step instruction on how to become a kite foiler the easy way
Adler, Patrick
Palmers, Oliver
Paperback
Nutrición para Surfistas: Estrategias alimenticias y suplementación para fuerza, resistencia y recuperación en el agua
González Andrade, César
Paperback
